Sewing apparatus



P. L. JAMES SEWING APPARATUS F eb. 8, 1966 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Aug. 14, 1963 P. L. JAMES SEWING APPARATUS Feb. 8, 1966 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Aug. 14, 1963 INVENTOR.

United States Patent Ofilice 3,233,576 Patented Feb. 8, 1966 3,233,570 SEWING APPARATUS Paul Leo James, 519 Arlington Place, Chicago, Ill. Filed Aug. 14, 1963, Ser. No. 302,152 9 Claims. (Cl. 112-216) This invention relates to the sewing arts and, in particular, to improved apparatus for and method of sewing a unique stitch, and to improved articles utilizing the stitch.

The objects of the present invention are directed toward the provision of improved sewn articles and improved apparatus for and method of making such articles having stitching which imparts unusual functional characteristics to the articles.

The improved apparatus employed in achieving the objects of this invention advantageously is utilized in connection with standard automatically or manually controlled sewing machines. Briefly, the apparatus comprises means for automatically and continuously engaging and advancing fabric into position to be stitched by a reciprocating needle, said means advantageously including a fabric-engaging member provided with a pair of spaced, substantially parallel, upwardly extending portions each of which has a series of spaced upwardly extending, toothlike projections laterally spaced and asynmictrically arranged with respect to the reciprocating needle to enable the attainment of a somewhat loose yet strong stitching possessing unique and marked resiliency characteristics. The stitching formed with the apparatus of the present invention is suggestive of that of ordinary straight stitching, and the fabric contiguous to the stitches or components of the stitching has a puckered or gathered, threedimensional character, while maintaining an appearance of lying substantially in the same plane as the areas of the fabric non-contiguous to the stitching.

In accordance with another aspect of this invention, my improved apparatus advantageously can be utilized in connection with a standard double needle attachment to produce stitching having marked resiliency. Stitching formed with such an arrangement has the general appearance of zig-Zag stitching, but the stitches are interlocked in a unique manner and the fabric, as in the case of stitching formed with a single reciprocating needle, is puckered or gathered about the stitches of the stitching to impart unusual resiliency to it. The elastic or resilient characteristics of stitching attained with my apparatus, whether with a single or double needle arrangement, is most advantageously retained by securing or anchoring in the fabric, in any manner known in the art, a portion at least of two terminal components of the stitching.

The outstanding characteristics of the stitching of the present invention can be utilized with advantage in numerous and varied ways. In sewing seams in garments, for example, especially in those areas of the garment where repeated stresses are placed on the fabric due to the movements of the wearer, the stitching of this invention achieves highly satisfactory results. The unusual stretchability and contractability of the stitching is suggestive of that of elastic making it capable of effectively relieving and counterbalancing fabric-straining forces.

The stitching of this invention, apart from its unique utility in seam sewing, also has important advantages in the construction of sewn articles such as trousers. Of especial significance in this connection is the ability, utilizing this invention, to produce trousers having a permanent crease in the leg covering portions thereof. This result is made possible largely by the resiliency, strength and neat appearance of the stitching produced in accordance with this invention, and provides, among other considerations, significant economic and work-saving benefits both to trouser manufacturers and wearers.

These and other advantages will become evident after considering the description hereinafter set forth in conjunction with the drawings annexed hereto wherein:

FIG. 1 is a front view in elevation of an. automatically controlled sewing machine having utility for the purposes of this invention;

FIG. 2 is a side view in elevation of the sewing machine illustrated in FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is an enlarged view in perspective illustrating the apparatus of this invention in operative relation to the presser foot and reciprocating needle of the sewing machine shown in FIG. 1;

FIG. 4 is an enlarged view in perspective of the apparatus of this invention as seen from above;

FIG. 5 is an enlarged view in perspective of the feed dog plate of the sewing machine illustrated in FIG. 1;

FIG. 6 is a fragmentary view partly in section taken along line 66 of FIG. 3;

FIG. 7 is an enlarged view in perspective of a double needle attachment having utility in connection with the apparatus of the present invention;

FIG. 8 in an enlarged fragmentary view in section showing the effect of a reciprocating needle on fabric being stitched utilizing the apparatus of the present invention during the descending phase of the cycle of the needle;

FIG. 9 is a view similar to that of FIG. 8 illustrating the effect of a reciprocating needle 011 the fabric during the ascending phase of the cycle of the needle;

FIG. 10 is an enlarged fragmentary view in section corresponding to the views illustrated in FIGS. 8 and 9, but showing the ettect of a reciprocating double needle attachment on fabric being stitched utilizing the apparatus of this invention;

FIG. 11 is an enlarged plan view of a section of fabric stitched with a single reciprocating needle and the ap paratus of this invention;

FIG. 12 is a view corresponding to the view of FIG. 11 but illustrating a section of fabric stitched with a reciprocating double needle attachment and the apparatus of this invention;

FIG. 13 is a plan view of a section of fabric sewn with a reciprocating double needle attachment;

FIG. 14 is a vertical sectional view taken along line 14-14 of FIG. 13; and

FIG. 15 is a view in perspective of a leg covering portion of trousers stitched in accordance with this invention to provide permanent creases.

Referring now in particular to FIG. 1 of the drawings, a typical automatically controlled machine having utility for the purposes of this invention is designated at 10. The machine 10 desirably has a bracket arm. 11 to which is joined a head 12 provided with a needle bar 13 and a presser bar 14. The needle bar carries a needle 15 to which thread is supplied from a spool 16 through the usual feeding, guiding and tensioning means. The needle bar 13 is reciprocated so that the needle 15 engages fabric being sewn at substantially longitudinally spaced intervals to provide a stitch which is locked by thread supplied from beneath a base or bed plate 17 of the machine from a bobbin and hook mechanism, not shown. The presser bar 14 carries a pivotally mounted presser foot 18 which desirably is of the type utilized in a conventional straight stitching operation. The design aspects of the presser foot may vary considerably. In the embodiment illustrated, the presser foot 18 advantageously has a transversely disposed opening 19 defining an area which may be conveniently referred to as a stitching arena, and a longitudinally directed slot 20 which enables the machine operator to guide the fabric into position to be stitched by the needle 15 and to view the stitching as it is formed. The mechanism for actuating the needle bar 13, presser bar 14, bobbin and bobbin hook are conventional and, therefore, the details thereof will not be described.

Referring now to FIGS. 3 and 5, adjacent to and below the needle and the presser foot 18 there conveniently is provided a needle or feed dog plate which in typical automatic machines forms a continuous, smooth, horizontal surface with the bed plate 17 for slidably supporting fabric to be stitched by the needle 15. The embodiment of the feed dog plate 25 illustrated advantageously has a pair of parallel, longitudinally extending slots 26 and 27 substantially intermediate of which is a rectangular shaped opening 28 which permits the needle 15 to intercept thread supplied by the bobbin. In the preferred aspects of the present invention, the feed dog plate 25 will be of the type conventionally utilized in making a straight stitch, the opening, corresponding to the opening 23 in the plate 25, in such a plate being generally circular and of small diameter. The slots 26 and 27 in the plate 25 are adapted to permit contact of a fabricengaging member 39 with fabric being stitched. The member 30 desirably is associated with a stepping mechanism actuated by the reciprocating needle 15 which in cooperation with the oscillating movement of the presser foot 18 advances fabric into the stitching arena of the presser foot 18.

The objectives to which this invention are directed are most advantageously achieved when the fabric-engaging member 39 is provided with features which coact and cooperate with the needle 15 in a unique manner. In the preferred embodiment illustrated in FIG. 4, the member 30 comprises a flat, rectangularly shaped, horizontal portion 31 provided with openings 32 for securing the member 34 to the automatic stepping mechanism (not shown) of the machine 16. Joined to the portion 31 along one side thereof is an upwardly and outwardly slanted, narrow, rectangular portion 33 to which, in turn, is joined, along the outermost side thereof, a flat, rectangularly shaped, horizontal portion 34. The portion 34 desirably has an area greater than that of either portion 31 or 33, and is provided with a rectangularly shaped opening 35 which, when the member 30 is in operative position, is in registration with the opening 28 in the plate 25 and the opening 19 in the presser foot 18. Of particular importance in attaining the objectives of the present invention, is the provision on the upper surface of the portion 34 of i the member 36 of spaced, substantially parallel, upwardly extending portions 36 and 37 each advantageously having a series of longitudinally spaced, upwardly extending, tooth-like, fabric-engaging projections 38. The portions 36 and 37 advantageously are positioned on the portion 34 transversely to the longitudinal axis of the member 30, and at a distance apart sufficient to permit the projections 38 to pass upwardly through slots such as the slots 26 and 27 in the plate 25, in response to the automatic action of the stepping mechanism of the machine it), to a height enabling the projections 38 to engage the undersurface of fabric being sewn on the machine.

In the particularly preferred embodiment of the invention illustrated, the portions 36 and 37 especially desirably have an unequal number of projections, and the projections on the portion having the greatest number thereof, in this instance, portion 36, are grouped, each group having a different number of projections. As illustrated, the portion 36 is provided with two spaced groups of projections, the forwardly positioned or larger group having a series of five equally spaced projections, and the rearwardly positioned or smaller group having a series of three equally spaced projections. The number of proections comprising each group is somewhat variable, effective results being attainable with from 4 to 6, or more, projections in the forward or larger group and from 2 to 4, or more, projections in the rearward or smaller group, it being understood that, the number of projections in the rearward group advantageously is always less than that in the forward group. The groups on the portion 36 especially desirably are spaced apart a distance sufiicient to permit some lateral movement of fabric thereinto in response to the action of the needle and the thread during the formation of the stitching. In the embodiment illustrated, a space 39 of approximately inch separates the respective groups of projections. The distance between the groups, however, is variable, and can range from 31 inch to inch to provide effective results.

The portion 37 of the member 39 advantageously has a single group of projections, forwardly positioned thereon, desirably equal in number and substantially parallel to the forwardly positioned or larger group of projections on the portion 36. As in the case of the portion 36, the number of projections on the portion 37 is variable, but the projections thereon preferably are decreased or increased in number to correspond with any change in number of projections on the forward or larger group of projections on the portion 36.

Turning now to the operation of the unique apparatus of the present invention, and with specific reference to FIGS. 8, 9 and 11, fabric 4% is advanced into stitching position with relation to the needle 15 by the automatic and continuous operation of the member 3% by the needleactivated stepping mechanism of the machine 19. During each pass of the projections 33 of the fabric-advancing member 30 through the slots 2s and 27 of the plate 25, engagement with the undersurfaee f the fabric 40 is made. The projections, upon making contact with the fabric, grip it suificiently to enable the area of the fabric to be stitched to be moved forwardly to a position under the needle 15 and within the opening 19 of the presser foot 18. As the fabric as is pierced by the needle 15 on the initial downstroke thereof, the thread carried by the needle 15 is brought into proximity with the thread on the single bobbin (not shown) mounted beneath the feed dog plate 25. Gn the initial upstroke of the needle 15, the thread carried by the needle 15 is caused to interlock in a conventional manner with the thread supplied by the bobbin. As the needle 15 moves upwardly and away from the fabric as on the upstroke phase of its reciprocating cycle, the projections 38 of the member 39, in response to the needle-actuated stepping mechanism of the machine it), are brought into engagement with the undersurface of the fabric 40. At approximately the same time, the tension placed on the thread by the longitudinal or forward movement of the member 30, while the needle 15 is at its raised position and in preparation for its downstroke, effects a slight shifting laterally of a portion .of the fabric 4t) into the space 39 separating the two groups of projections 38 on the upwardly extending portion 36 of the member 30. This slight shifting of the fabric as into the space 39, while resisted by the unique grouping and arrangement of the projections 38 on the portions 35 and 37 of the member 3%, is sufficient in its extent to permit the eedle 15, on its next successive downstrolte, to pierce the fabric 49 at a point offset from the point in the fabric 4t) Where penetration by the needle 15 would normally be made in the absence of the shifting achieved with the apparatus of this invention. The stitch thus formed is somewhat loose in character and effects a gathering of fabric about it giving the stitch a three-dimensional appcaran-ce.

As each successive stitch is formed by the cooperative action of the needle 15, and the space 39 and the rojections 38 of the fabric-advancing member 3%, stitching is produced which is characterized by having unusual resiliency suggestive of the proper-ties of elastic. The stitching has the appearance of a standard straight stitch. However, when enlarged, as represented in FIG. 11, the individual stitches 41 form a distinct and unusual irregular pattern. It is noteworthy, in this same connection, that the areas of the, fabric contiguous to the stitching retain an appearance of lying in substantially the stitching. The term stitch as used herein means a single complete pass or motion of a needle and shuttle carrying the thread through the fabric from one point of entry to the next successive point of entry using a straight-stit=ch setting at normal or average tension. The term stitching as used herein means a series or line of stitches as thus produced.

In accordance with a variant aspect of the present invention, stitching having unique elastic-like properties can be attained by substituting a standard double needle attachment 45 for the single needle. An embodiment of such an attachment is illustrated in FIG. 7, and the stitching 46 achieved with the apparatus of this invention utilizing the attachment is represented in FIGS. 12 and 13. The stitching produced in fabric in accordance with this aspect of the invention has a substantially zig-zag configuration, and is distinguished by having a centrally positioned raised portion or ridge 47 between the successive points of entry of the needles. As shown in FIG. 14, each stitch formed by one of the needles is interlocked with a neighboring stitch formed by the other needle. Each needle, in cooperation with the fabric-advancing member 30, acts to gather fabric about the stitches as they are formed in a manner suggestive of that attained with a single needle. As is the case with stitching formed by the hereinabove described single needle arrangement, the areas of the fabric contiguous to the stitching retain an appearance of lying in substantially the same plane as areas of the fabric non-contiguous to the stitching to produce an overall attractive appearance to the stitched fabric.

The resilient properties of the stitching produced in accordance with this invention advantageously are maintained by securing or anchoring a portion of at least two components of the stitching to the fabric. This pre- -vents slippage of the thread along the stitching and preserves the resilient, puckered effect.

The stitching may be utilized with advantage in connection with substantially any fabric, whether closely or loosely woven, or light or heavy in Weight.

As hereinabove indicated, the stitch produced with the apparatus of this invention, particularly with a single needle, has important advantages in the construction of articles of clothing. One such article wherein such a stitch may be employed to attain highly desirable results is trousers. The waistline portions, the lower torso coveriug regions, the crotch and fly areas, and the leg covering portions of trousers can all be stitched in accordance with the practice of the present invention to impart uniquely resilient properties to the stated portions, regions and areas thereof. Trousers thus stitched comfortably conform to the waist and lower torso of the body of the wearer thereby creating an overall neat, slimming effect.

Conventional stitching, due to its relatively rigid, nonelastic character, manifests little if any such resiliency and therefore necessitates the use of other, generally less economical, techniques to accomplish a satisfactory result.

Apart from its utility in the seaming of trousers, the apparatus, and stitching attained therewith, of this invention has still another important advantage in the construction of trousers. conventionally made trousers, generally speaking, are provided with steam-pressed creases in the leg covering portions thereof. With use, such creases are either lost, or diminish to a degree where the trousers no longer have a neat appearance, thus requiring repressing. In accordance with the practice of this invention, permanent creases having marked resiliency can be provided in trousers. An embodiment of the leg covering'portion of trousers having such permanent creases is illustrated in FIG. 15. It will be observed that the leg covering portion 50 has permanent front and back creases 51 formed by the stitch 41 of this invention. The unusual stretchability and contractibility of the creases 51 enable them to counteract those forces which place While for the purpose of illustrating and describing my invention certain specific embodiments have been shown, it is to be understood that modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit of the invention and scope of the appended claims.

What I claim as new and desire to protect by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In a sewing machine having a thread-bearing reciprocating needle for producing substantially straight stitching in fabric, a source of thread associated with the needle, a bobbin carrying a supply of thread and a bobbin hook for providing locked stitches in fabric engaged by the needle, the improvement comprising a pivotal presser foot, a stepping mechanism actuated in timed relation with the reciprocating movement of the needle and including fabric engaging and supporting means which cooperates with the pivotal presser foot to advance the fabric to be stitched to a position under the needle, said means including two laterally spaced parallel rows of unequal length of upwardly extending fabric engaging and supporting extensions, the extensions of the longer of said rows being separated into unequal groups by an opening therebetween, the extensions of the other of said rows being arranged in a single group and being opposite to the extensions of the group of said longer row having the greatest number of extensions, said rows of extensions being positioned on opposite sides of the needle and being movable in an upward and longitudinal direction by the stepping mechanism to maintain at regular intervals, during stitching, portions of the fabric in a freely supported position under the needle and against the pivotal presser foot to enable tension to be placed on the thread carried by the needle, while the needle is at its raised position, to effect a shifting laterally of a portion of the fabric into said opening in the direction of the needle and a shifting longitudinally in the direction of the needle of areas of fabric not engaged by said extensions thereby causing portions of the fabric to move in a somewhat arcuate path as the fabric passes under the needle while at the same time causing each component of the stitching formed by the needle and bobbin to be offset, one from the other, the combined effect being to impart an elastic-like quality to the stitching rendering it capable of relieving and counterbalancing fabric and stitchstraining forces.

2. Apparatus s claimed in claim 1 wherein the opening in the longer of said rows of extensions is positioned in spaced, substantially lateral alignment with the needle, and the upper, fabric-engaging surfaces of the extensions comprising said spaced parallel rows lie in substantially the same plane to enable them in unison to engage and support the fabric to be stitched.

3. In a sewing machine having a thread-bearing reciprocating needle for producing substantially straight stitching in fabric, a source of thread associated with the needle, a bobbin carrying a supply of thread and a bobbin hook for providing locked stitches in fabric engaged by the needle, the improvement comprising a pivotal presser foot, a stepping mechanism actuated in timed relation with the reciprocating movement of the needle and including fabric engaging and supporting means which cooperates with the pivotal presser foot to advance the fabric to be stitched to a position under the needle, said means including two laterally spaced parallel rows of unequal length of upwardly extending fabric engaging and supporting extensions, the extensions of the longer of said rows being separated by an opening of appreciable length into a forward group of spaced extensions and a rearward group of spaced extensions, the forward group of extensions being lesser in number than the rearward group, the extensions of each of said groups being of substantially the same width and height, the extensions of the shorter of said rows being arranged in a single group and being opposite to the extensions of the rearward group of ex tensions of said longer row and having a width and height corresponding to the width and height of the extensions of said rearward group of the longer row, said rows of extensions being positioned on opposite sides of the needle and being movable in an upward and longitudinal direction by the stepping mechanism to maintain at regular intervals, during stitching, portions of the fabric in a freely supported position under the needle and against the pivotal presser foot to enable tension to be placed on the thread carried by the needle, while the needle is at its raised position, to effect a shifting laterally of a portion of the fabric into said opening in the direction of the needle and a shifting longitudinally in the direction or" the needle of areas of fabric not engaged by said extensions thereby causing portions of the fabric to move in a somewhat arcuate path as the fabric passes under the needle while at the same time causing each component of the stitching formed by the needle and bobbin to be offset, one from the other, the combined effect being to impart an elastic-like quality to the stitching rendering it capable of relieving and counterbalancing fabricand stitch-straining forces.

4. Apparatus as claimed in claim 3 wherein the opening separating the forward and rearward groups of extensions of said longer row is positioned in spaced, substantially lateral alignment with respect to the needle and is from about about inch to about inch in length, and the number of extensions comprising the single group of the shorter of said rows of extensions is equal to the number of extensions comprising the rearward group of said longer row of extensions.

5. In a sewing machine having a pair of thread-bearing reciprocating needles arranged in substantially parallel relation with respect toone another on a common support base, a source of thread associated with said needles, a bobbin carrying a supply of thread and a bobbin hook providing locked stitches in fabric engaged by the needles, the improvement comprising a pivotal presser foot having an opening therein of sufficient width to enable the needles to substantially simultaneously engage fabric to be stitched, a stepping mechanism actuated in timed relation with the reciprocating movement of the needles and including fabric engaging and supporting means which cooperates with the pivotal presser foot to advance the fabric tobe stitched to a position under the needles, said means including two laterally spaced parallel rows of unequal length of upwardly extending fabric.

engaging and supporting projections, the projections of the longer of said rows being separated into unequal groups by an opening therebetween, the projections of the other of said rows being arranged in a single group and being opposite to the projections of the group of said longer row having the greatest number of projections, said rows of projections being positioned on opposite sides of the needles and being movable in an upward and longitudinal direction by the stepping mechanism to maintain at regular intervals, during stitching, portions of the fabric in a freely supported position under the needles and against the pivotal presser foot to enable tension to be placed on the thread carried by said needles, while the needles are at their raised position, to effect a shifting laterally of a portion of the fabric into said opening in the direction of one of the needles and a shifting laterally toward the other of said needles of a portion of the fabric adjacent to but not in engagement with the projections of the shorter of said rows of projections thereby causing portions of the fabric between the needles to be drawn upwardly to form a ridge which is permanently established in the fabric by the interlocking of the stitches formed by the needles with the bobbin.

6. Apparatus as claimed in claim 5 wherein the opening in the longer of said rows of projections is positioned in spaced, substantially laterally alignment with the needles, and the shorter of said rows of projections is positioned with relation to the needles so as not to be in substantial lateral alignment therewith thereby to enable thread, under tension, carried by said needles to cause a portion of the fabric to be stitched to move laterally toward the needles.

'7. Means for attachment to the stepping mechanism 0 a sewing machine for advancing fabric to a position under a reciprocating needle in cooperation with a pivotal presser foot, said means including a substantially horizontal portion having a needle admitting opening therethrough, said portion having two laterally spaced parallel rows of unequal length of upwardly extending fabric engaging and supporting extensions, the extensions of the longer of said rows being separated into unequal groups by a fabric admitting opening therebetween, the extensions of the shorter of said rows being arranged in a single group and being opposite to the extensions of the group of said longer row having the greatest number of extensions, said rows of extensions being positioned on opposite sides of said needle admitting opening.

8. Means for attachment to the stepping mechanism of a sewing machine for advancing fabric to a position under a reciprocating needle in cooperation with a pivotal presser foot, said means including a substantially horizontal portion having a needle admitting opening therethrough, said portion having two laterally spaced parallel rows of unequal length of upwardly extending fabric engaging and supporting extensions, the extensions of the longer of said rows being separated by an opening of appreciable length into a forward group of spaced extensions and a rearward group of spaced extensions, the forward group of extensions being lesser in number than the rearward group, the extensions of each of said groups being of substantially the same width and height, the extensions of the shorter of said rows beingarranged in a single group and being opposite to the extensions of the rearward group of extensions of said longer row and having a width and height corresponding to the width and height of the extensions of said rearward group of the longer row, said rows of extensions being positioned on opposite sides of said needle admitting opening.

9. Apparatus as claimed in claim 8 wherein the opening of the longer row of extensions is from about 7 inch to about 4 inch in length, and the number of extensions comprising the single group of the shorterrof said rows is equal to the number of extensions comprising the rearward group of said longer row of extensions.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 106,228 8/1870 StOcker 1122.16 112,308 2/1871 Winter 112-216 418,068 12/1889 Robinson l12-216 1,121,127 12/1914 Onderdonk 112216 1,483,184 2/1924 McCann 1l2437 1,646,383 16/1927 Becker 112--437 1,754,608 4/ 1930 Card 112-221 2,548,361 4/1951 Ginwright 112216 2,882,846 4/1959 Coates 112216 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner. 

7. MEANS FOR ATTACHMENT TO THE STEPPING MECHANISM OF A SEWING MACHINE FOR ADVANCING FABRIC TO A POSITION UNDER A RECIPROCATING NEEDLE IN COOPERATION WITH A PIVOTAL PRESSER FOOT, SAID MEANS INCLUDING A SUBSTANTIALLY HORIZONTAL PORTION HAVING A NEEDLE ADMITTING OPENING THERETHROUGH, SAID PORTION HAVING TWO LATERALLY SPACED PARALLEL ROWS OF UNEQUAL LENGTH OF UPWARDLY EXTENDING FABRIC ENGAGING AND SUPPORTING EXTENSIONS, THE EXTENSIONS OF THE LONGER OF SAID ROWS BEING SEPARATED INTO UNEQUAL GROUPS BY A FABRIC ADMITTING OPENING THEREBETWEEN, THE EXTENSIONS OF THE SHORTER OF SAID ROWS BEING ARRANGED IN A SINGLE GROUP AND BEING OPPOSITE TO THE EXTENSIONS OF THE GROUP 